Restaurants and Bars

Hamburg, "the gateway to the world," boasts a plentiful variety of international cuisine that's available at almost any time of the day or night. Yet despite so much foreign influence, Hamburg still offers its own unique local cuisine which visitors shouldn't miss.

Traditional north German dishes don't generally win many prizes in gourmet magazines, and sceptics and first-time visitors can get unnerved when they hear about dishes like Birnen, Bohnen und Speck (pears, green beans and bacon), Aalsuppe (eel soup) or Labskaus (fish and meat stew). However, if you take a closer look at Hamburg's local specialties, you will realize that there is nothing especially strange about them. They are based on the same fresh ingredients which the surrounding countryside has provided for centuries. Most traditional dishes are seasonal no-frills affairs, and reflect North German simplicity mixed with a touch of the Danish love for all things sweet.

It goes without saying that one of this seaside city's staple ingredients is fish. Late spring is the perfect time for Maischolle (spring plaice), which can be found in hundreds of restaurants and snack bars all over the city. Finkenwerder Ewerscholle (fresh plaice fried in bacon and served with boiled potatoes and a side salad with a sweet cream and lemon dressing) is a specialty best tried in sophisticated fish restaurants like Fischereihafen Restaurant, Deichgraf, Alt Hamburger Aalspeicher and Stock's Fischrestaurant. A popular summer specialty is "Matjes" (herring) served with green beans and bacon, while a prawn sandwich makes a good snack between meals.

Aalsuppe (meaning literally "eel soup") doesn't actually have any eel in it: the name comes from the North German word for "everything," meaning that the soup consists of all kinds of summer vegetables, as well as ham and sweet prunes. Another late summer specialty is Birnen, Bohnen und Speck, a stew based on a particular variety of pear that ripens in August. All this lovely fruit comes from Altes Land, a giant orchard south-west of the city. Labskaus was created by fishermen in the Middle Ages, and is a wonderful illustration of the proverb "necessity is the mother of invention." In the days before refrigerators, fishermen could take only salted meat with them on their long voyages, and they made it edible by boiling it into a thick broth with potatoes and onions. Mashed together with a herring, some beetroot and a pickled cucumber, the result looks slightly strange, but is extremely tasty. Try it out at places like the Old Commercial Room or Zum alten Senator.

Hamburg has a fine choice of restaurants that offer seasonal German fare, such as asparagus in the late spring / early summer, and smoked pork, sausages and fried potatoes in the winter. The dishes on offer at places like Ahrberg or Markgraf are a fine mix of creative and traditional cuisines. For typical Bavarian fare, head to Franziskaner. Or head to Zur Schlachterbörse for a large, no-frills steak. "Neue deutsche Küche," the German equivalent of nouvelle cuisine, is best tried in modern establishments like Anna, Allegria and Bit am Jungfernstieg.

The city also boasts a number of top chefs and exclusive gourmet restaurants such as Wollenberg, Michael Weißenbruch's A Table and Hans-Peter Engel's Restaurant Haerlin in the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. Fine hotel restaurants include Hotel am Holstenwall and Prem. If you want to enjoy a view of the river while dining in style, then you'll be well catered to by upmarket establishments such as Landhaus Dill, Landhaus Scherrer, Sagebiels Fährhaus, and Hotel Louis C. Jacob. Cafe und Restaurant Engel in Teufelsbrück has a wonderful terrace -- perfect for dining on a balmy summer evening. The range of international cuisine is enormous and is too varied to go into great detail about. Medded, for example, is a top address for Egyptian specialities. Vegetarians should head for Laska's, Tassajara in Eppendorf or Suryel in Altona. Mr.Green restaurant chain also offers great veggie food at reasonable prices.

Hamburg has a large choice of restaurants that are open late: Arkadasch, for example, serves up Turkish delights until 2a, Bar Hamburg specializes in fine fish and meat dishes, Bolero is great for tacos and fajitas, while Max & Consorten is a good bet for late-night croques. Numerous garden restaurants offer visitors the opportunity to dine outside in the summer. Places like Röpers Hof in Othmarschen, Landhaus Walter in the Stadtpark, or Cafe Schöne Aussichten in Planten un Blomen park are particularly pretty. If you are looking for something different, try the rotating restaurant at the top of the Heinrich-Hertz-Turm, or chug along the river in the Louisiana steamboat's gourmet restaurant.

Hamburg abounds with cafes where you can enjoy a big breakfast or pop by for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake in the afternoon. Each district has its own particular favorites: Witthüs and Strandcafe in Blankenese, Schotthorst in Eimsbüttel, Cafe Lindtner in Eppendorf, Fees Restaurant & Bar near the Holstenwall, Cafe Unter den Linden in the Schanzenviertel, Destille in St. Georg, and September in St. Pauli. Otherwise, head for Grindelallee, a street near the university loaded with cafes.

If you prefer a liquid diet, Hamburg is definitely the place for you! The beer situation is particularly good, as there are several local breweries, many of which have been brewing beer since the Middle Ages. Visitors can take guided tours through the Bavaria-St. Pauli brewery and the Holsten brewery—drinks included, of course! Otherwise, you can pull your own pints at Brauhaus Joh. Albrecht or enjoy a glass of Weißbier and barbecue your own sausages at Brauhaus Hanseat.

The large variety of different bars and pubs means there is something for everyone. The Reeperbahn in the red-light district is the hotspot for the younger generation. Happening places include Amphore, Blauer Peter IV, The Chinese-Mandarin-Lounge, Meanie Bar and Roschinsky's. The Schanzenviertel is home to countless atmospheric little pubs, the smallest of which is Kurhaus. You could also try places like Schilleroper, Saal II, and Bar Rossi. A firm favorite in multicultural St. Georg is Max & Consorten, but Cafe Gnosa has become equally popular, especially among the gay and lesbian crowd. The district of Eimsbüttel is well served by R&B, Meisenfrei and Maybach. There are also plenty of cocktail bars in town, the most stylish of which are Ciu's, Bar Hamburg, Cairos and Havanna.

Wine connoisseurs will be in their element at Allegria or Schwender's, with a choice of over twenty open wines which you can enjoy on the outdoor terrace in the summer. Cremon's wine vault in the old town is full of old-world atmosphere, while Weinlokal Schoppenhauer serves up great meals accompanied by fine wines in a warehouse just around the corner. Another excellent wine selection is available at Zur Traube in Ottensen, an 80-year-old establishment located in a beautiful, architecturally significant building recognized as such by the city of Hamburg. If you fancy a bit of "DIY wine," then head to Lemitz Weinstuben (in Eimsbüttel) in the autumn, where you can help harvest the grapes and see how wine is fermented.