Restaurants and Bars

Dining and drinking in Heidelberg

The dining and drinking opportunities in Heidelberg reflect the unique situation of this beautifully historical city, tucked into the Neckar River valley. As one of Germany's historically important cultural centres, with the oldest and most Nobel-prize studded German university, and with well-preserved traditional German architecture, the city exerts a powerful force on those who want to explore the Germany of old.

The millions of visitors who come from around the world to discover this interesting past are greeted with a great variety of traditional German pubs and restaurants, which offer local and regional specialities in authentic settings. The massive influx of international visitors, however, leaves its mark, and so perhaps more than any other city its size in Germany, Heidelberg offers visitors (and locals) lots of international dining opportunities.

The blocks around the Hauptstrasse and in the old city have the greatest concentration of cafes, restaurants and pubs, but try to spend a little time beyond the fringes of this area too, if you can. One other tip: in Heidelberg, particularly on the Hauptstrasse and in the old city, restaurant hours can vary depending on how busy they are, what the weather is like, the time of year, and so on. This is particularly true of some of the newer locations, which may have to experiment a bit to find their niche clientele. If in doubt, phone ahead before setting out.

If you're on the hunt for traditional German food, have no fear: some of the old city restaurants seem to be in informal competition to provide the heartiest and meatiest fare. First, there are the three golds: Zum Goldenen Schaf, some 250 years old; Gasthaus Goldener Hecht, where Goethe ate; and Goldener Anker, occupying a house built in the early 1700s. You also won't be able to avoid noticing Zum Ritter St. Georg, whose well-known facade looks out on the Holy Ghost Church. Another popular spot that specialises in serving up traditional food is the Brauhaus Vetter, which brews its own beer on location. This is an especially good spot for carnivorous groups, for parties of 20 or more can order ahead for an entire roasted pig.

In addition to these and other larger and older locations, there are numerous smaller establishments characterized by wood and plaster interiors and menus heavy with traditional meat and potato or noodle dishes. Visitors should be aware, however, that German cuisine can also reach the delicately sublime, as those who treat themselves to a meal at Kurfürstenstube and Die Hirschgasse certainly know. These two elegant establishments offer contemporary German cuisine that is neither average nor easily forgotten.

International options include Greek, Italian, US American, Irish, Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Korean, French, Spanish, Mexican, Indian, Pakastani, Persian, Turkish, Japanese and more. These are available both in take-out, fast food versions and full service restaurants in which one can enjoy a fine, multiple course meal with drinks (and even, at Cedars Restaurant, with a water pipe and belly-dancing!). Vegetarians and budget travellers in particular should note that international restaurants, particularly Asian and Middle Eastern, are often the best bets.

For most visitors, a trip to Heidelberg wouldn't be complete without a few indulgences in the renowned German beers. Most restaurants offer a selection of German beers, a few brew their own right on the premises (the Kulturbrauerei Brauhaus is an especially good choice for that), and Zum Weißen Schwan, which offers 101 beers, even advertises itself as a beer museum. To steep yourself in German beer and tradition, spend an evening in one of Heidelberg's historic student pubs, most of which are adorned with old photographs and memorabilia. Jack the Ripper, with English ales, or one of Heidelberg's several Irish pubs, are other places to stop if you'd like to try something a little different.

As refreshing as the beer is, locals know that as great as beer may be, it can't beat the wines that the Heidelberg region is known for. The city is located in the Baden wine-growing region, which produces many dry wines of high quality and is the origin of many of Germany's best Spätburgunders. Just to the north is the tiny Hessiche Bergstrasse, which produces mostly Rieslings, and whose vintages are a real treat to find given their rarity. West lies the Pfalz, where world-class dry white wines can be found, especially Rieslings, Scheurebe, Weiss- and Grauburgunders. Look for such estates as Bürklin-Wolf, Bassermann-Jordan, and von Buhl. Lastly, Württemberg lies to the east, where, in recent years, several red wines have earned it distinction. Whatever is in the glass, if it originated in the region surrounding Heidelberg, you can be sure it is a quality wine.

Naturally, it is perfectly possible to have a great time just having a coffee, snack, or ice cream at one of the numerous cafes. Most places have at least a couple of tables streetside, and expect most public squares (and both the Uniplatz and the Marktplatz in the old city) to have lots of pleasant outdoor seating when the weather is nice. International guests will be pleased with the selection of newspapers at the Cafe Journal, and day and night the streets between the Holy Ghost Church and the Alte Brücke are popular places for coffee and conversation. In several international languages, of course.